First Look: The New Longines Master Collection

Since 2005, the Longines Master Collection has been the brand’s flagship line of traditional mechanical watchmaking. While the collection includes more complex models such as chronographs, moon phases and GMTs, the core, conservative Master Collection mainly comprises time-only models. The latest news from the winged hourglass brand is the release of the new, fully redesigned Master Collection in four case sizes. With refreshed cases, dials, hands and bracelets, the twenty references adopt a more coherent visual identity and will be added to the existing line-up. Rather than reinvent the wheel, the principal design directive was to give this Longines classic a more contemporary appeal.

Background

The Master Collection as we know it today was Longines’ classic all-round dress watch line, offering plenty to choose from. With nine case sizes ranging from 42mm to 25.5mm and everything in between, the most recognisable features (although not necessarily the only ones) of the collection were the traditional barleycorn-patterned dials, leaf-shaped hands, and, depending on the model, Breguet-style, Roman or Arabic numerals, diamond indices in the smaller women’s models and even the odd few with baton indices. The new range seeks to iron out these discrepancies, rationalise the selection of case sizes, and achieve a more unified design logic throughout.

what’s new

Available in four case sizes – 30mm, 34mm, 39mm and 41mm – there is plenty of variety to suit a wide range of wrist sizes. All the references share smooth, concave-shaped bezels, large, notched winding crowns and polished finishes throughout. Other common features include a sapphire crystal on the caseback to view the automatic Longines movement and 30m water-resistance. Factoring in versatility, all the new references can be fitted with newly designed stainless steel bracelets with shortened links and a micro-adjustable folding clasp or with leather straps, also upgraded with a new folding clasp with micro-adjustment.

Honouring the family’s most salient features, the new Master Collection incorporates the signature barleycorn pattern, reminiscent of traditional guilloché, across the family, alongside the redesigned leaf hands and the date window at 3 o’clock. When it comes to materials and colours, there are abundant choices. Read on to discover what each case size offers.

Master 41mm

As the largest model in the new Master Collection, the 41mm references offer the clearest statement of the new design. Featuring the classic barleycorn pattern, in silver or blue, the dials host applied Arabic numerals and blued-steel or rhodium-plated hands, depending on the configuration.

Longines also uses the 41mm size to introduce two references with Eastern Arabic numerals, both on silver barleycorn dials. These versions lend the collection a more distinctive and cosmopolitan character while retaining the same overall layout, 3 o’clock date, and stainless steel or leather strap options as the rest of the family.

Mechanically, the 41mm watches are powered by the Longines calibre L888.5, with a silicon balance spring, a 72-hour power reserve and a sapphire caseback. The case measures 9.5mm thick, with a 21mm lug spacing, giving the watch a substantial but still refined presence on the wrist.

Master 39mm

The 39mm models follow the same recipe as the 41mm watches, but with a slightly more restrained case thickness of 9.05mm. They share the silver or blue barleycorn dial, applied Arabic numerals, blued-steel or rhodium-plated hands, and the same date display at 3 o’clock.

The key difference is that the 39mm range does not include the Eastern Arabic numeral versions seen in the 41mm line. Otherwise, the technical package remains identical, with the L888.5 movement, silicon balance-spring, 72-hour power reserve, sapphire caseback and the same bracelet and strap architecture.

Master 34mm & 30mm

The 34mm and 30mm models offer a more feminine interpretation of the redesign, with the barleycorn pattern printed on the periphery of the dial in the mother-of-pearl references, embellished with 11 diamond indices. There is also the classic full barleycorn dial option with applied Arabic numerals.

Longines also uses these two sizes to introduce two-tone variants with yellow or rose gold-capped bezels, matching 18k gold crowns and gold-plated hands. Both sizes are powered by Longines automatic calibres – the L592.5 in the 30mm models (see below) and the L888.5 in the 34mm versions (see above) – and share the same practical features, including a sapphire crystal, sapphire caseback and date at 3 o’clock.

Price Range

The redesign has given the Master Collection a sharper, more unified identity, lending Longines’ classic dress watch formula a more contemporary edge without losing its traditional appeal. The revised case sizes, automatic movements and upgraded bracelets and straps add versatility to the package while the traditional barleycorn dials and leaf-shaped hands consolidate their provenance. Positioned between EUR 2,300 and EUR 3,550, the price remains in Longines’ accessible luxury bracket.

More information at Longines.com.