Friends at a dinner party were saying that lasers are a great alternative to fillers and Botox. I love the idea, but their names all sound so technical. How do I know what’s right for my skin?
Sasha, 55
Lasers are completely brilliant but, as you say, very hard to get to grips with. The names alone are gibberish, even to a seasoned beauty editor: ClearLift, UltraClear, Halo, Fraxel. Huh? Who? What? Here’s the conundrum: you can’t walk into a clinic and say, “Hi, I’d love laser!” Because it’s a bit like ordering wine. If you know you want pinot noir, asking for “red wine” is a gamble — anything could arrive at the table. The same goes for laser treatments. You could end up with something entirely wrong for your skin concerns.
Let’s start with a quick laser lowdown. In aesthetic terms, they’re “highly controlled beams of light energy that can be directed into the skin with precision”, says Dr Nina Bal, the founder of the Facial Sculpting clinic. “Different types of laser and light devices use specific wavelengths to target concerns such as pigmentation, redness, acne or skin laxity by stimulating the skin’s natural repair processes.”
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Back to your question. Yes, they can work as an alternative to injectables, but I’m nervous about the comparison because they don’t do the same job. “Injectables address muscle movement, volume loss and contour,” Bal says. Lasers can transform your complexion, but not by adding volume or removing wrinkles. “These treatments are for clearer, brighter, tighter skin,” she says.
Clearer, brighter, tighter? You’re in, aren’t you? As I mentioned, different lasers do different things. There are gentle, no-downtime lasers for boosting collagen; redness and pigmentation-specific lasers for sun spots, broken capillaries and post-acne marks; or the more intense resurfacing lasers for rough texture, fine lines and scarring.
Which to choose? I asked the superfacialist Teresa Tarmey, beloved by Sienna Miller and half of London’s glowy-skinned set, for her No 1 go-to. Her reply landed in my inbox within minutes. “Alma ClearLift is my favourite and has been for about 15 years,” she says without hesitation. “It’s exceptional for delivering that instant lift and glow with zero downtime. Skin looks fresher, brighter and noticeably more refined almost immediately, so it’s great before an event.”
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For those interested in resurfacing, I recently booked in for the Lutronic LaseMD Ultra laser to tackle my dull texture and pigmentation. I wouldn’t describe it as a relaxing spa experience. The sensation is scratchy and a little uncomfortable but manageable with a topical anaesthetic. “Some patients don’t bother with the numbing cream,” Grace, the practitioner at the Facial Sculpting Clinic in Knightsbridge, told me as I winced and wriggled. For a few days afterwards my face was red and felt like sandpaper. I was sent home with a serum to apply morning and night while my skin went through its repair process. Twelve days later, the results are hard to argue with. My complexion is smoother and more even, and I’m not so desperate to reach for my foundation for the early morning nursery run.
The skin expert Keren Bartov
Finally, Keren Bartov, the laser legend who preps the Hollywood elite, including Kate Hudson and Julia Roberts, as well as Serena Williams for the red carpet, said that if she could only pick one it would be “Deka Onda Pro because it allows me to create real structural improvement in the skin”, she says. “The device helps to tighten and refine facial contours, particularly around the jawline and chin. It’s my go-to for clients before important events. It achieves visible lifting and definition without pain or downtime.”
So if you want a laser glow-up, just make sure — like with red wine — you choose the right one.
Have a beauty question you need answering? Message Sarah at asksarah@sundaytimes.co.uk or DM @sarahjossel
